Rome - Day 2

A very long day which started at 8.20am and finished at 6.20pm without a break for lunch. This might be the shortest post yet, but that won’t reflect the fullness and importance of the day.

First up, we checked out the Circus Maximus, the gathering place and race-track in Ancient Rome made famous in the Ben Hur movie.

Now it is just a grassed area but the shape and extent are clear. Not sure how Kingston Town or Makybe Diva would have handled the bends at each end. Then a quick look at a church nearby called ... Cosmedin. Not sure about the rest of the name and no time to ‘google’ it so will go with that. (Added later: Thanks Jane, the link says it all)

A quick walk to the Vatican – in the rain – got us to what is called the ‘Scavi’ Tour, which means excavation tour. We were booked in some months ahead. What an experience. After being warned not to go in if prone to claustrophobia, a girl was part-carried and assisted out before we started. The tour was sensational. We were one more level down from yesterday’s trip to the crypt. That is, below the Basilica is the crypt and now they have found another level below that – where excavations were started in great secrecy about late 1930s because they did not want Hitler et al to know. They tracked back under the main altar of the Basilica and sure enough, found St Peter’s coffin or what’s left of it and some bones which they placed in plastic boxes and re-interred. The evidence is very strong but not absolutely conclusive that it is Peter, but I’ll go with it. So we stood within 3 metres of his bones which were partly visible through a small gap in the rocks. Quite an experience. I recall seeing these excavations in a virtual tour on the Vatican website some time ago. Sadly we could not take photos down there so will rely on the link above (repeated in case you missed it) and this website for general information about St Peter's Basilica. Felt a tad shaken when I emerged – not sure if it was environmental conditions or the experience itself.

No rest! Onto the next church which was the Basilica of St Paul Outside the Walls, which speaks for itself really.

Again, I’ve seen this on a website, probably the Vatican, but the marble statue of Paul in the courtyard is huge. Then you go into the church and everything else is huge also. (Previously, I thought Sydney and Bendigo Cathedrals were big, but not compared to these). At this site, the body of St Paul is interred below the altar, which was standard practice way back then.

There is no doubt about this, as records exist, although his head (he was beheaded about 67AD in Rome) is interred in St John Lateran Cathedral. Again, it was quite powerful to stand in front of this space and know Paul’s remains laid about 2 metres behind the lattice in the photo.

Next it was the Basilica of Mary Major. Again, a spectacular church.

We celebrated Mass in a side chapel in this church, which was special. Also, in another, more significant chapel, was the original of the classic icon of Mary which was copied as the World Youth Day Icon, so this is a nice link for when I return to school. The photo is not very good (no photos, so had to 'shoot from the hip' then look apologetic afterwards) and I have not found a good link.

Mary Majors - WYD Icon
Pushing on – it was a punishing schedule – we went to San Clemente Basilica, which was fascinating in a different way. The church was set below road level, that is, we had to walk down stairs to get to the entrance. Dedicated to St Clement, the fourth pope, the visible church was built in the 4th Century, but they have excavated below to find a 2nd Century Church, which, in turn, was built on an ancient Roman town. The photo gallery on the link shows photos I could not take (... not allowed plus lack of skill).

I think I’ve explained this before, but I could never get this idea of building over older buildings, but apparently these older buildings with poor foundations in an earthquake-prone part of the world might get knocked over in an earthquake, so the usual thing was to compress and infill the fallen buildings, level the area out and start again, on top of where you were. Makes sense to me now. Anyway, in this San Clemente church, we walked down through several civilisations and saw ancient roman buildings which were very close together with very narrow streets perhaps only 3 feet wide. Remarkable, although a little eerie. The place would make a great wine cellar.

The last church on this whirl-wind tour was St John Lateran, which is the Cathedral Church of Rome (ie the Pope’s main church, not St Peter’s Basilica as most assume; which means the church where the Pope has his cathedra – not catheter).

It was very impressive, especially the huge marble sculptures along each side depicting the twelve apostles with the instruments of their death included in the art work. (Added later: This link shows the size of these sculptures, which are breathtaking. But cannot find detailed photos of the sculptures). And thanks Eric for coming back to find me after the group vaporised from my presence.

I am very tired, as are all the troops, after an exhausting day, but a great day, where you feel as though you have been in close proximity to Peter, Paul and other greats of the Church. Several places are on the list of places to visit in Rome next time. Have not been to the Trevi Fountain, (and I cannot recall the movie, not sure I ever saw it) and I had to include this happy snap from the bus of the Coliseum, as we drove past it, but I want to check it out properly next time, along with many other sites.

I get the impression many sites of interest in Rome are not that far away and can be walked to, if you organise accommodation carefully. Traffic is chaotic with street signs and traffic signals only there as suggestions, but it is good fun. Tomorrow, we visit the Catacombs on our way to Assisi. Over and out!