Saturday, October 10, 2009

Kallabaka or Kallambaka

Long bus trip today. About 4+ hours north through the middle of Greece up through the hills. Incredible views along the way. Steep inclines, switchbacks and hairpins as we climb and descend, but then through broad plains especially the Plains of Thessalie (must check spelling later). Stuck up high in the hills. Very fertile and a major food and crop source for Greece. Harvesting cotton as we drive past but it looks rather dismal size plants or bushes from what I can remember from Narrabri etc.

Headed for the monasteries of Meteora. Apparently only 6 left now but there was 20 or so at some stage in the Byzantine or Roman past.

Only one night at a time for quite a while now, which means we don’t really unpack. Later we get multiple nights in each hotel which will make it easier. Quite comfortable travelling. Wary of the drinking water now we are outside Athens, based on advice (it looks and smells OK though), so I will stick to bottled water and coffee – which would not be a problem normally but I am struggling to acclimatise to the coffee. Seems our version of ‘flat white’ is unheard of but they serve up a cappuccino which tastes like a short black with some froth on top, closer to a macchiato in my view. Will keep trying!

These plains are so extensive. I am sitting in the back seat typing away. We are going through another town and have been on these plains for over an hour. Many half-finished buildings with concrete floors, two or three levels with some levels partially finished but not inhabited.Seems common in the areas we have driven through.

Bloody unbelievable! As we drove towards Kallabaka (or Kallambaka on some maps) after a short visit to a genuine Byzantine Icon factory or shop, these hills loomed in the distance.

We drove directly at them for some time before realising that our destination was under them. Spectacular is probably an understatement. Perched on hilltops that mountain goats would avoid were these Greek Orthodox monasteries.

The pictures speak for themselves but I’m sure that a google on ‘Monasteries of Meteora’ would yield a few photos. At the risk of repetition – bloody unbelievable! We went into two of these places and the views and placement were sensational. I was stoked by the geological setting and need to find out the geological history. The guide is now a little better informed about geology - but I was gentle. One of the monasteries we went past was used in a James Bond film (I think the guide said ‘For Your Eyes Only’)

A very long day and another early start tomorrow – a punishing schedule – but I will go and line up for the hotel’s internet access point to try and upload this with some photos or at least email some photos out to Jane or Kate or Jacqui. Shades of the early journos trying to get their story out on any available flight!

I now appreciate Greek Iconography much more than I did previously (which was close to zero), however there is a risk at present of iconographitis. I think I have seen enough for a little while.

To Thessaloniki tomorrow which will be another long, windy drive up into Macedonia (Beroea, now Veria) before heading for the coast and Thessaloniki. Might look out for Peter Daicos relatives as we head through Macedonia.

1 comment:

  1. Great to read about Dad - not sure I'd be confident enough to step into the monasteries though! The fact that there was 20 and there are now 6 reminds me of the fact the '12 apostles' are now 8 on the great ocean road and how they just crumbled... Yikes!

    Uploaded the pics for you too... Seems there's 2 things you like better here... the bandwidth and the coffee...

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